A kind Bato dropped me back to the Bar station first thing, ready to catch the 9am train back to Belgrade through the Tara River Gorge. This time I changed seats in order to get the seat that had the windows down. Crossing my fingers that no one would have it reserved. The train left right on time. I was able to take pictures of the bays that we had gone to on the boat trip. The first stop saw people getting on, and oh dear they wanted the seats, but it turned out they were a russian family with the same idea of taking photos of the trip back. We were lucky that no one else wanted them and we made the most of the seating.
It turned out the son could speak english so we were able to enjoy a conversation of sorts.We all enjoyed the fact that we’d jump up to get photos only to find that there was another tunnel to go through. I really enjoyed their company, the first russians I have been able to relate to and it was a delight. Unfortunately, they got off the train after the canyons, but it was with cheery waves and much smiling we said goodbye. The Tara river canyons are the deepest in Europe, and have a UNESCO world heritage cover on some of the park,in Durmitor National Park.
The canyon was all I thought it would be, the cute small village turned out to be on a cove off of Lake Skadar , a huge fresh water lake that belongs to both Montenegro and some of Albania. A charming cove partially covered by the water lilies that I had seen. The train also tracks across Herzegovina and Bosnia briefly so I can truthfully say I have been there as well. I am fascinated by the people mostly men that stand up straight and watch the trains go by. I gather they are probably rail workers keeping an eye on the trains as they go through. They are usually next to a small house in out of the way places. That has been the case since I have been in these countries. Some even wear a peaked cap.
Instead of having a dining car or coffee trolley they had itinerant sellers that come through the carriages saying they have drinks of various sorts. mostly beer, water ,coke or a cola of some sort. They get on at the stations while the train is stationary and off as it leaves. This trip there was a guy that stayed with the train the whole time dishing out coffee as people asked and delivering to their seat on a small tray!
Last day in Belgrade
After arriving in late from Bar, this time a twelve hour journey, punctuated by stops for unknown reasons of varying lengths of time. The same chap that had wished me a welcome to Montenegro was again checking my passport at the border. Hello , he says , its me again, did you enjoy Montenegro?
I was blown away that he should remember . So I had to add that I had enjoyed it veey much. He says now you will have to come back next year! If only I thought I could, who knows?
I was starting to get very sick of eating my small croissants with caramel and other fillings. they are very nice in small quantities. I would rather a filled roll but with the heat, fresh food I feel is at risk so I only buy things think will handle the heat and a backpack . KIT KATS don’t like either!
Once the canyons had disappered I settled back into playing with the ipad.
This attracted the attention of some small boys who kept running down to my seat and just staring at me, most kids do anyway so that in its self wasn’ t a bother but you could see them also looking at the computer. ignoring them I purposely changed to Tom cat and pretended to play with him, all the while watching them out of the corner of my eye. You see the sheer fascination on their faces, so I put Tom in front of them and had to show them how to touch the screen. The littlest lad about 6 conttoned on very quickly and soon was belting the hell out of Tom. The older boys a bit slower, so they all had turns. After some time I said it was my turn and they were happy to go back to where they came from somewhere further up the carriage. Half an hour later the two older kids came back, one really the spitting image of one of my grandchildren. So I showed them other games I had , I only have 5 apps for games just really for the grandchildren but yes, I play too!
Of them, they ended up playing Angry birds and played happily together each taking a turn. It was after getting the same screen every time , I had to show them the score they had to beat to move on to the next screen. They didn’t speak english and I have no idea what language they were speaking, chances were high that it was serbian! Once they realised that they were away! It was getting close to Belgrade by now and time to put the ipad away, wouldn’t have lasted much longer in any case, therenwas just 11% battery power left on it. The kids had a lot of fun, children around the 9-10 age group are good kids. Tom has been a hit with the children around the world.
Train arrival into Belgrade an hour late, but I was amazed at the crowds of people and the piles of luggage the platform waiting for the night train to Sofia. The train I would be catching tomorrow night. A quick walk from the station to the hostel as it was essentially dark, but the streets I had to go were reasonably well lit so I wasn’t overly concerned. After being got at by the thief while in Bar, my confidence has taken a little bit of a hit. It was good to be welcomed back to the hostel and my room ! Tiny though it was it was mine for the night. A cup of camomile tea and something to eat saw me hitting the sack fairly quickly.
A taxi arrived promptly to pick me up from the Budapest hostel and drop me off at the station ready for the trip through to Belgrade. Arriving at the station early I was told the Belgrade train was in if I wanted to sit in it, at least it was cooler. I made the mistake of accepting help from a railway guy with the suitcase only to find out when getting to the carriage that it was actually a porter who was wanting money. I could have kicked myself I so dislike that attitude, you lend a hand then want to be paid for it. So having made myself comfortable I settled in to wait for departure as did many others, having to move ourselves yet again as the staff placed the reserved tickets on the carriages. This train had the six seat compartments that you see in old movies. Settled in once again, the powers that be then decided right time wrong train and we all had to move again, just ten minutes before departure. This made me a little cross to say the least as having been early I had chosen the seat that suited me, now it was put at risk in another train. As in deed it was, taken by a couple of lads, who fortunately for me decided to change seats so I grabbed the seat I wanted, facing the direction of travel. I have decided that I do not like sitting backwards when travelling in trains.
The train was out on time, and made its way slowly towards Belgrade. This was the slowest train I had been on since leaving Shanghai months ago now. However it was not without some very good reasons,because the weather has been extremely hot, generally between 30-40 degrees, I suspect the speed was kept low because of possible rail damage from the heat. Out came the ipad and its on to the games and books to keep amused with after I decided that the scenery was mostly going to consist of acres and acres of beautiful flowering sunflowers, interspersed with other crops such as corn and something else that reminded me of broad beans. They may well have been, but I should have thought it was far too warm for them to grow satisfactorily.
Tiring of the games I started chatting to a couple of very nice young men from Denmark. Remarking that their speech sounded german to my ears. They both laughed apparently it is a common mistake and one that they are used to. Like they said there is only 4 million speakers of the language, and its one that veey few people hear . Haviing a three week holiday exploring the countries of Eastern Europe before commencing studies in Politcal and IT fields at university. It helped pass the time as the carriage compartment got warmer and warmer. It least my seat didn’t get the fullsun but it came close to it. We all nodded off at some point or other through boredom or lack of sleep not once but several times. At least I didn’t feel so old by doing so!
The villages we passed were not in a particularly good state of repair, certainly some of the roofs one wondered how they actually kept the weather out if in fact they did. On the whole length of the trip I saw only three head of livestock in a paddock. Virtually the entire trip saw the flat landscape totally under cultivation for crops. I had not brought any food for the day assuming there would be a meal trolley of some sort, alas, I was wrong! so from after breakfast until after eight that night I didn’t get to eat. With the weather as hot the inclination wasn’t there in any case. Did have plenty of water though, from experience, and the heat. Different to the UK trains where it appears that any trip over an hour warrants a tea trolley or dining car, these old communist countries still have a way to go in capitalism.
As we got closer to Belgrade the train stopped more frequently and the people getting on were more inclined ro be workers or house wives,it seemed. Suddenly in stead of the six seats in the compartment, they had managed ro turn the car into an eight seater, complete with purchases, leaving little room for anyone else. Fortunately it was only for a one station gap, it was just too hot for everyone at that capacity and the noise of their chatter incessant, more so if you don’t understand what they are saying!
Soon after the train pulled into Belgrade half an hour late. I am learning already that the serbians don’t think much of their train service, preferring buses to trains for travelling.
People came and went, along with them the border control police, first from Hungary then from Serbia. As it didn’t need visas travelling through these countries I could at least relax, or could I? Certainly one of two of the police seemed to take more notice of my passport than they did of the others. Perhaps it was the stamp that says turned out of the country in Uzbeckistan! The train seemed to be stopped for quite a while on both occasions, and if I had thought faster I probably could have jumped out and got something to eat, until I realised that I had no dinars to do so.
Once out of the train and armed with the instructions as to how to get to the hostel that was given as 5 minutes away from the station. Nearly an hour later after going round in circles, on a sweltering day pulling the damned suitcase I was reaching the end of my tether. The combination of the written serbian spelling of the street names combined with the apparent lack of knowledge of the local area, by people you would think would know the street names. Together with a miniscule sign with the hostel name on a door instead of out on the street made for a very hot ,tired , and rather short tempered old lady.
When I had stopped to ask the vendor of an icecream stall where the hostel was, her look was one of ‘are you stupid or what” there it is, behind you!!! Worst was yet to come as I buzzed the door and it opened and there in front of me this time was one of the very old wire cage lifts that I last saw in the late fifties at home. I gingerly opened the door, it was swung like a normal door in a house, taking I and my suitcase into the swaying, creaking lift. I closed the interior doors and pressed the second floor, thinking I was on the ground floor but no, the lift went past the first floor and stopped unwillingly at the next floor! Never have I been so glad to hear a lift stop! I couldn’t get out fast enough! Buzzing the hostel door I was let in to what would be my home for the next couple of days .
Reaching the end of the shopping streets, brought me to the Kalemegddon park, fortress, churches on a hill above the junction of the two rivers, the Sava and the Danube. Thankfully, there were many trees of the large and shady description! The usual little shops with their souvenirs, and food or ice cream. Even spare shops folded down, presumably waiting for owners or someone to rent them. This area is one of the main attractions of Belgrade. Certainly the number of people enjoying the shade and the fountain was impressive. Families with children particularly, the kids had room to ride their bikes, play ball , or play with the water in the fountain. It is wonderful to be able to drink the water here with out buying the ubiquitous plastic bottles of the stuff, but people still buy the bottles of water. At 40 dinar for a small bottle not expensive but on a serbian wage…….
I took time to wander through the old gates of the castle or fortress, not quite sure as to its correct title. You know you are in a military zone as once you enter, there are old guns lined up for display. I was struck by the fact that the city has concerts here as well. Over the bridge leading to the inner parklands and fortress .The brick tunnel gates were built in 1740-60 Very solid with iron doors. Alcoves blocked off from the public, but you could see through the iron protecting them. What the purpose of the alcoves was originally I didn’t know. I took time to wander through the Military museum that was there. A most interesting place displaying the serbian military history from a thousand years ago. The country has always been in some sort of strife as the museum displays indicated. There were relicts from a distant past up to the present day, the uniforms, the weaponry, the memorials to those who paid the highest price. A strange wall with skulls set in concrete, there were some explanations in english, but for the vast majority of items , there wasn’t, which I found frustrating but mans inhumanity to man needs little explanation in my view. On from the military museum, I chose to walk round the park area, this overlooks the two rivers that converge, the Sava and the Danube. A beautiful day and beautiful scenery to be admired from behind the perimeter walls. The solitary figure on the pedestal overlooking the city , I was reminded of a childrens’ story, ‘the Happy Prince’ I loved that story of a prince that overlooked the city, saw and loved everything that went on.
The sun was exceedingly hot so I didn’t stay long out in it but enjoyed sitting in some strange chair like structures under the trees, watching a small boy having a whale of a time climbing and jumping off some of them, One even had spots on it! From there it was a slow stroll back to the entrance of the park.
One of the information centres had told me about the Number two tram, the stop for it just outside the park. This tram goes in a complete circle and is a very useful tool for getting around the city. At 160 dinar a very good service, old trams, but that didn’t matter it was part of their charm. Interesting to see the drivers stop the trams at the depot, wander across to the office for more water/toilet, rest break. while carrying a load of passengers who sit patiently and wait for the drivers return. I liked it because it went to the park and the rail station, essentially each end of town so it made life a little easier. The cost was the same no matter where you got on or off. I went round twice initially just to get my bearings, and to see places that I might want to visit more closely.
The Belgrade heat is becoming very wearing and I find myself getting very tired, and feet feeling the heat. Normally I don’t feel my feet, but by now I even had blisters on my toes and those I could feel. Sight seeing has been reduced to four or five hours a. day and the judicious use of well used public transport. The hostel this time was a very nice one , and it was everything the website had said it would be, the only disappointment was my room was very tiny. I couldn’t stand my suitcase square on to the bed as the door wouldn’t open. It was literally about 1.3 metres in width , with the bed hard up against each wall. Room size therefore 1.3m x2 m. I loved the hostel though , it was fresh, clean and the proprietors friendly as were the other occupants. The kitchen well equipped, with a free breakfast, laundry etc.
The hostel was well placed to access the city area, for museums, parks and general sight seeing. First thing to do as always find the supermarket! Getting instructions from the ever helpful receptionist it sounded fairly easy. I set out as instructed, enjoying the new sights and taking in the little things like foot paths that need repairing, how the natives drive! I have been struck by the number of shoe shops in the cities I have visited in this part of the world. There are many, mostly small owner operated, I think. Prices appear to be mostly fairly low in my eyes, but undoubtedly expensive on a serbian wage. Shoes in Europe generally don’t fit me because the sizes are too small , for I choose to go barefoot when ever I can which has resulted in wide feet.
Walking up hill seeing the the usual tatty, graffiti scribbled walls, cigarette butts every where along with the inevitable rubbish a sad comment on the society, but one they can do little about. I spotted the supermarket name also tatty , with no mention of what it was. The entrance certainly distinctive. The rusted old escalator looking completely dead, and decaying if that is at all possible. The filthy concrete steps leading to a dingy but wide walkway, equally appalling in its filth. Once in you started to see small shops , and even a large bedding shop, it had some beautiful goods for sale that I found very tempting! Nearly missed it, but noticed the supermarket door tucked in an alcove. I love going around the supermarkets in the various countries, they are all different. In these east european countries they don’t seem to encourage you to spend heaps, as there are generally just baskets or pull along baskets, trolleys are there but seem to require paying for before they can be used. The problem is more likely to be that everything has to be carried home. There are no big carparks like we have at home, where large trolleys get filled and taken to the car. It is where the back pack is very useful. The prices of the goods appeared to be very cheap to me, but a comment to the hostel manager, had him saying no they were not! It is very much relative to a persons income or lack of it. I kept walking up streets with unpronounceable names , and from my point of view unreadable as well. Belgrade showed some class as I continued to walk through the streets. I was intrigued by the sight of hundreds of swallows ducking and diving the length of the streets ,high above the shoppers. I assumed they were swallows because of their wing shape. They reminded me of the ones we had on the farm,always nesting in odd but safe places. Along the street were the high end retailers, and many many cafes, restaurants, and eateries with their umbrellas out to ward off the heat of the sun. It really was the only place to be in this weather.
I slipped out of the Belgrade hostel early, actually glad to leave that one, I’d picked up fleas! The room didn’t have an outside window, made it quieter, but the downside was it had a window inside onto the next room, shadowed glass of course, for privacy, but they had forgotten that lights from that room effectively lit up my room. So had just fallen asleep last night only to have the very bright light shine through, along with the noise of fellow hostel guys. This meant I didn’t get to sleep until nearly two. The reason I have private room mostly is for that reason, I don’t disturb and no one disturbs me.
As well as not being as clean as I liked and I can’t say I am particularly fussy in that area, what really annoyed me was website had said the kitchen was fully equipped, and had lots of good reviews about the place. In my book one small hot plate does not represent a well equipped kitchen, lack of a microwave not even a toaster that I saw, perhaps one in a cupboard????.
One bathroom and toilet in the same room for the needs of probably twenty people when full , fell short of representing a good hostel. Did have an air conditioner but the first night I froze, the second I had turned it up and with the addition of some of my clothes made it warmer to sleep as there were no blankets ,just the empty duvet cover. The 5 minute walk to the station was more like 15 minutes when towing a heavy bag.
I made the station with plenty of time to spare, the bags were particularly heavy as I had stocked up with food for trip, I wasn’t going to make the same mistake twice learning from my Budapest to Belgrade trip! Just as well I did as it was an 11 hour ride. People all started boarding as soon as the train had slowly backed into the station and stopped. We were all obviously allocated seat numbers so that made it a lot clearer. These trains are just not designed for travellers like myself as there are invariably no places to store big suitcases for a trip which means they have to be parked in the least disturbing place, not easy actually.How ever settled in my seat next to the window ,facing the direction of travel I was ready to take on the day. The lady in the international ticket office did very well I thought.
We left right on time and the train trundled out at a slow pace, through the city and picked up its speed once leaving the boundaries. At first it was the standard Serbian scenery that I have become used to seeing the crops, the sunflowers and the inevitable flat land enterprises. The train was packed apart from the seat next to me and the lady opposite. Every time the train stopped I crossed fingers that no one would take it. Eventually my luck ran out, and I had to stow the back pack under my feet as it wouldn’t fit anywhere else, I could see the lady opposite me wasn’t impressed at all. The seats in this train were in clusters of four, two sets of seats facing each other and no where to comfortably put your feet without kicking someone else’s. How ever we got by, I spent most of the time on the ipad or just gazing out the window. The toilet was a disgusting mess, that made a person cringe just thinking about it, let alone using it!
The smokers went into the vestibule between carriages which meant the smoke was blown back into the seating compartment. There are so many smokers in these countries , they will inevitably have many health problems in the future. The pity is they include a lot of young people as well as the old. I have no doubt that in the years to come they will fall into line with western countries and ban smoking from trains and restaurants in particular!!! The border police for Serbia came and went after a long stop, then the police from Montenegro came aboard to do their passport checks ,another stop. It was nice being welcomed to the country instead of being taken off of the train for a visa infringement.
It was from this point on, while I was reading a book on the ipad, that the terrain started to get interesting. The tunnels had started quite early in the trip, so nothing new there, but the hills started to grow into mountains, very big mountains they were too. The rivers so pretty as the water dropped over the stones in the river beds. The tree covered mountains started to lose some of their trees and turn to bare tops and rocky outcrops. Soon the train seemed to be just snaking around the rails with massive drops on one side. Tantalisingly, you would see maybe a minute of stunning mountains , then racing back through a tunnel. There are well over two hundred tunnels on this line, bridges are many. One of the highest viaducts in Europe is on this line, I was told this was the deepest canyon in europe, I can believe that, it was massive.
I think this trip by train is one of the better ones in terms of scenery, I have seen a few. After going through the many tunnels and around the mountains, it seemed to me that all of a sudden we were down on the flats again. Water lilies galore , I thought they were on various wetland ponds and lakes. The train passed by the cutest village set in a small bay of sorts, with their boats all lined up, the sort of sight I have seen in Scotland and England. Soon we are passing the sea, before long coming into Bar, a trip of over 11 hours. I was thrilled to have the hotel owner pick me up from the station, there is no way I could have made it on my own. Probably been ripped off by yet another taxi driver.
Thankfully the hotel/hostel turned out to be a good one, and the owners made me and the other guests they picked up from the station feel very welcome. And a decent nights sleep to boot, bliss!
