St Petersburg Archives

Farewell St Petersburg

By Patricia | 2017-08-11 | Comments 0 Comment

My last day in the St Petersburg was a miserable wet one, cold as well, so it was spent in the warmth of my room. Slipping out between the showers getting supplies from the local supermarket. Packing done and taxi ordered for six pm nothing left to do but play on the Ipad and read another book.

The taxi arrived at five, the receptionist advised me to take it. An hour later, I understood why. It had taken us that long to go from the hotel to the Vibetsky station because of bumper-to-bumper traffic. The driver took, the long way but in doing so he took us past most of the magnificent buildings I had seen in the previous week despite the grey and overcast day, I was pleased to appreciate them again for the last time.

The usual flights of stairs to navigate again made easier by a young soldier giving me a hand. The couple of hours that I always allow waiting for the trains soon went. The platform easily found, even the train was standing ready to go. Half an hour before train departure, boarding commenced and I found myself in a very nice compartment with lovely English speaking Lithuanian. The train furnishing outshone all the previous trains I had been on, seats that were actually comfortable to sit and sleep on with out the extra padding. The sheets ironed and duvet to cover, it was very nice indeed.

Elena and I settled down and arranged our gear slowly exchanging small talk in English. After departing the station, the train attendant brought us tea and coffee, another first for me, at no charge. Elena having done the trip a number of times asked if I wanted to join her in the dining car. Too right, I was getting very hungry after skipping dinner. We had a very pleasant meal, with a waiter who was pleased to be doing his job. It makes such a difference to have some one friendly bring nice food instead of being scowled at.

Having enjoyed our evening, we took ourselves to bed; with just the two of us in the compartment, there was room to move.

Woken again at 3 am by Russian border control wanting passports, again my passport visa had expired by would you believe, by three hours. Consequently, I was removed from the train and sent to a hotel on the Russian side of the Latvian border! Offering me a room the receptionist was kindness itself, but by this time, it was nearly five in the morning so I really could not be bothered. Besides there was three drunken Russians to keep me amused and supplied with coffee and conversations that only they could understand. They were gentlemen enough to offer me a room for the rest of the night. Their English was hopeless and my Russian non-existent! Eventually they rolled off to bed and left me to amuse myself on the Ipad. The receptionist had called immigration and discovered I was to report to passport control at nine in the morning.

Catherines Palace

By Patricia | 2017-08-11 | Comments 0 Comment

Catherine’s Palace

An early start today as I planned on going to Catherine’s Palace, out at the town called Pushkin, but also known Tsarskoe Selo. Checking with the receptionist called administrators in Russia, as to the best way to go.

She advised using the Metro to go to another suburb of St Petersburg, called Moscow… It was here I caught the 187 bus to Pushkin, an interesting ride as the suburb was on the outskirts of the city, and on the way to the airport. It was a very pleasant suburb in that it was modern, with wide streets and amenities. A thirty-minute drive by a bus driver who would certainly not be getting a ticket for speeding, we arrived in Pushkin.

The problem for me was I did not only know where to get off the bus, but also to find the park!

A fellow passenger on the bus took it upon herself to help, so when she got off the bus I had to as well. A circular area appeared where it was obvious most of the buses dropped their passengers . As I speak no Russian, and she spoke no English, it was a difficult situation. I had remembered reading that locals referred to the park as Ekaterin… so I wrote it on paper that I always carry. She saw it and knew exactly what bus. A small minibus of nine people, she issued instructions to the driver and left with a cheery wave. Sure enough a few minutes later we pulled up outside the park, and the driver indicated that I get off!

I was pleased that it worked out so well. I wandered off to see Catherine’s palace and park. Ticket to the park area cost a 100 rubles including a booklet with information about the place. It turned out to be a ‘wow’ sort of day as the trees that comprised a lot of the park had paths through out leading in all directions. The beautiful blue sky and trees with their spring leaves alone made the day. As you turned, there would be another amazing building or sight worth seeing and appreciating. The hump bridges over streams, the various structures in their different forms were stunning. An island with its building, boats tied to the jetty and the lake still in the early morning. Ducks doing what ducks do best swimming and diving.

A stroll along the lakeside past some iron figures I understood were copies of pictures. I was privileged to go through one of the buildings that was closed on my return, I suspect it was only open briefly for a tour group. After walking around the lake, I headed up to the main building. It was a truly stunning sight, the sheer size alone enough to make you catch your breath, added to by the golden globes atop part of the palace. There was a dry pond/lake in front of another smaller building probably for renovation; the workmen were also working on an adjacent future pond or lake area.

Of course many,many visitors milling around, tour groups with their umbrella waving guides, listening attentively to their comments. It was not very busy and for that, I was thankful. Going into the palace for the tickets a very confusing affair as there were supporting arches and shops to go past to find the ticket or Kacca booth. Requesting the ticket I had bought for entry to the park, before I was able to purchase the palace ticket at 320 rubles. The information about the tickets was all in Russian leaving me in the dark as to the tickets and their mysteries.

Getting to the turnstiles for entry, I was turned back and asked to leave my backpack at the cloakroom. This all done in sign language and a few laughs with a very lovely friendly lady. Slightly different to the woman in the cloakroom who had huge chip on her shoulder, and the usual Russian customer service, of “Humph,” I do not want/need you tourists!

Off to the entry area where everyone dons paper slipper socks to protect the beautiful parquet floors of all the rooms. After climbing the red-carpeted stairs, it was on to all the beautiful rooms of the palace. Ostentatious to say the least but stunning to think in the past someone would spend all that money on a house! The rooms of all gilt, glamour, mirrors, paintings, even the floors equally magnificent. I felt at home here, perhaps I was Russian in another life!

It would be futile trying to describe the wonderful rooms it was really a case of seeing is believing! A very pleasant way to pass the time just wandering through all that luxury, the mirrors everywhere, the beautiful wall paper in some of the rooms. I lingered a little too long over a cabinet of old books and an alarm sounded. There are people sitting in each of the rooms, I took as a safety precaution for the crowds as well as security for the items on display. I saw at least three of them sound asleep! It would be difficult to stay awake for long periods under those circumstances!

The rooms are laid out in such a way that everyone has no choice but to follow the planned route, so it was soon time to leave, regretfully for me I had loved it. Back out to the park and a different route back to the entrance.

Then another go at trying to get back to St Petersburg! Achieved again with the help of a friendly local waiting for a bus, and a switched on bus driver who understood what I was trying to do. Much to my delight, he stopped at the Metro station and pointed at it, with a big smile! A wonderful day out, I would say recommended visit for any one spending time this wonderful city. So back to the scary metro and the hotel in no time at all!

St Petersburg

By Patricia | 2017-08-11 | Comments 0 Comment

After a good night’s sleep on a comfortable bed, it was up to get breakfast. A very nice buffet breakfast, including a rice pudding. Fascinating to have rice pudding for breakfast, they have in this country. One that I most wholeheartedly agree with, and enjoy, despite the fact that it is probably loaded with calories. Lingering over the Ipad, drinking coffee and it’s off to start the day. I had been trying to find a day tour for the city without a great deal of luck.

With my newfound skills of using the Metro, it was off to Nevsky Prospect in central St Petersburg. Surfacing in Nevsky St, the main street, there were hawkers selling tours but difficulties with language meant I gave up and started out on foot, when a hop on hop off bus drew up! I jumped on it forthwith! For 500 rubles, it was not what I would call a cheap ride, but it suited me.

Taking the top deck to see the views, it was a cold day and the wind chilling, so glad of my jacket and its warm hood. Everyone on the bus did the same so it was not just me! It was an awesome two-hour trip slowly moving around all the main sites. I made a mental note as to which I would go back. After a McDonald lunch shared with some Americans from Michigan, I hit the footpaths again. I favored McDonald’s nearly the whole trip because invariably they had Wifi, as a solo traveler the Ipad is company. Not only that, the time difference for catching up with family on the other side of the world tended to be during my days sightseeing. Heading for the St Isaacs church that was close by, having seen it from the bus tour, many of the sights of St Petersburg are within an easy walking distance from Nevsky Prospect. Always queues of course, but worth the effort to go and see inside, 250 rubles the charge. The churches are always so beautifully decorated and worth seeing.

Within the area of the church there was an orchestra or band I am not sure which, practising for the Mayday celebrations for 9 May. With the customary, police, security, and people in uniforms the area was ready with seating and sound system. They must have many officials, as there seemed to be seating in fenced off areas in several sites in the city. A bit of overkill in my view, but hey, they are Russian!

Walking on and back to Nevsky St, Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood, the one with all the globes came into view. The simply stunning and unexpected views from the main road caught me. Following the canal, it made very pretty walk, with the inevitable crowds of people coming and going.

The many buskers and small shops an interesting sight with the Matryoshka dolls that are so well known. A large doll with others nested inside the hollows of the previous one. Just outside the church, a man with a couple of monkeys hiring them out for photo opportunities, the monkeys dressed for the occasion. I am not sure that I agree with that but there is little one can do about it. Given the society, I imagine there will be permits and a lot of red tape in place.

Another 250 rubles lighter, it was into see the interior of the church. As gaudy inside as out but nonetheless a very interesting afternoon. The pictures on all the walls made from the tiniest mosaic tiles, seeing the enormity of the work involved you can only wonder at the craftsmanship that has gone into this stunning church.

What an achievement for the artists! It was interesting listening to all the languages being spoken by tour guides, and yes, there was one in English as well.

Of particular interest to me was a young man playing a guitar, busking, and of all the buskers I had heard, his playing came across as being outstanding. A walk in the park or garden along side the church very pleasant Watching the children in the playground, and people in general enjoying the first signs of spring on a beautiful spring afternoon.

Slowly returning to the hotel via the Metro, I am still not comfortable traveling what feels like a kilometer under ground, could be more, could be less , in the scheme of things it doesn’t matter, its still a long way down!

Exiting the Metro close to the hotel, another busker was playing several instruments at once. I spent time to listening to him, a delightful experience. I decided on a pasta dinner at a shop I had noticed in one of my exploratory trips.They even had Borsch on the menu, which of course I had to have. Not as nice as the one I had eaten in Bukhara but still tasty. I am very tempted by the delicious looking strawberries, but at 180 rubles a chip, justification was hard to come by! Equating to $7.60nz they were certainly expensive.

St Petersburg

By Patricia | 2017-08-11 | Comments 0 Comment

St Petersburg

I spent over an hour waiting for a transfer to the hotel, but because of miscommunication, I had to get one of the airport staff to ring the company. They were not expecting me until tomorrow. However, a short Taxi ride later and I found myself in the cutest boutique hotel. The Shelfort is a three star hotel with only 15 rooms, but one that appealed to me immediately. Once through the doors into the entrance hall, the room itself was a large twin with ensuite of course, on the ground floor and best of all free Wifi. Everything that was important to me. You could walk past it in the street and not even notice the small sign on the door. The graffiti on walls before reaching the hotel gives a bad impression of the area.

After settling in, it was off out to check out the locality!

Oh joy, a McDonalds and a lovely tree lined street of various businesses, taking note of possible eateries. Shop fronts being made ready for the summer outdoor eating and coffee consumption. A church with local women tending it was worth seeing, just for the fact it was an ordinary parish place of worship.

After lunch at Maccas, whose prices were actually no cheaper than home, it was off to try the tram system.

The old tram clanked, hissed and struggled around the city; it was a cheap ride at 21 rubles. I saw a great deal of the city for over an hour. Finally getting off the tram at the end of its run some distance from the hotel. I had relied on it being a circular run but alas, it was not. No problem, there was a Metro just down the road to use; it was a considerable distance from one I needed that was close to the hotel. With the Metro map in hand and a few struggling conversations with language difficulties, I managed to use the Metro and change trains ultimately back to the right one!

The Metro system here is supposed to be one of the deepest in the world, I found it terrifying going on escalators that you could scarcely see the bottom. Well lit and maintained certainly, but still not for the fainthearted. I noticed even some of the Russians did not like looking down so they faced the top of the escalators! The question I had to ask, why would it break down today? The tokens for it obtained either from machines or from Kacca booths. I always buy my tickets from the ticket booths, something they don’t encourage obviously. The women behind the glass are invariably sour and unhelpful; one in particular threw the change and tokens into the dish! They have a customer service problem! It must be very boring sitting alone behind a glass protected booth all day. The Russians seem to work long hours as well.

As I have said before customer service in ordinary life needs to improve big time in these countries. After a very pleasant day, wandering it was nearly 8pm before I was back at the hotel, but as sunset is not until nearly 10pm, there was plenty of time. I rarely go out after dark, mostly as a safety precaution.